Carl's FFR Mk4 Roadster Build

Carlewms

The Rivet Man
Contributing Member
Member
ust to make sure the story is complete ... there have been a few "booboos" so far in getting the body work ready for painting ...

1. Sanding Too Much. In my zeal to get the right shape there have been two times when I actually sanded a hole in the fiberglass ... not a big holes but ones that required applying 3M HSRF to repair.



Note: The hole in the photo has been expanded for clarity.

2. Forgetting or Failing to Install All the Seals. The seals (bulb seal on the aluminum panels) and the weatherstriping (on the frame around the hood opening) must be installed before attempting to get the doors fitted to the body. The trunk seal should be temporarily installed and the hood trimmed and supported with seal and or rubber buttons as required.

3. Cracked Door Latch Support. Somehow I managed to crack the support ... either from dropping the door or most likely from pulling on the door when I "glued" it to the body with Rage Gold ... another blunder.



4. Glueing the Doors to the Body. This occurred on more than one ocassion ... I got lost in sanding and shaping one area while the filler solidified in the gaps on the doors. The fix usually involve at minimum a utility knife and in one worst case a large flat blade screwdriver and a rubber mallet ... oh and a whole lot of pulling to get the door to break loose. Note that this is likely the cause of the problem in #3 since I could have been putting pressure on the door with it still latched.



5. Pinholes, Pinholes and More Damn Pinholes. After getting the sanding done to 120 grit I inspected the surface carefully and found a lot more pinholes than I actually expected. I think the causes for their sudden appearance ... 1) Sanding through the gelcoat in some places; 2) Improper mixing of the Rage Gold; and, 3) Applying the filler too late ... meaning as it was turning or setting. I used a 3M product

 
One of the formerly well known painters used to low pressure bead blast the entire body before filling to expose the pinholes. If they're close to the surface the solvents from paint / primers can leave you with divots when you paint the car.
 

Carlewms

The Rivet Man
Contributing Member
Member
Phil,

Thanks ... I ended up using an Overcoat body glaze that filled them in nicely ... but I have also found that I need to go over the body multiple times to catch all the little bastards ...
 

Carlewms

The Rivet Man
Contributing Member
Member
Thanks for the feedback ...

Here are some more questions requesting your wise and sage counsel ...

1. How much gap between the body and the side pipes where they exit the body? It would seem that you want it tight but not tight enough that the two touch under heavy acceleration as the engine twists a little.



2. Side Mirrors. Everything I have read and, in some cases experienced, is that the fender mounted mirrors are basically non functional ... at least for a view down the side of the car. Because of budget considerations spending $250 on a set of these is out of the question (although they are highly recommended on the FFR forums).



They mount on the sides of the windshield using the hardware for the wind wings.

I am looking at some motorcycle mirrors like these ...



Thoughts and feedback please ...

Carl
 

Scott Harrison

"Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional"
Staff member
Contributing Member
Member
IMO, leave sufficient clearance or you'll cook the paint....FFR example
Here's a Superformance example..
 
Last edited:

Scott Harrison

"Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional"
Staff member
Contributing Member
Member

Scott Harrison

"Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional"
Staff member
Contributing Member
Member
Oh here's a shot showing both the side pipe clearance AND a mirror mounting point (more original location even if it only gives you a view of the rear fender). Please ignore the "crack in the windshield. ;)


Picture 023.jpg
 
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